The Queen’s Justice, indeed. Episode 3 provides us with a few new costumes to assess, even if they are (predictably) a variation on a theme. Still, they are laden with symbolism and importance. Let’s jump right in.
Jon Snow arrives at Dragonstone wearing his usual armor. Tyrion greets him and Davos in his usual attire. Nothing seems to be of note, except upon re-watching, it seems that Missandei‘s armor and dress are even further echoing Daenerys, as will become evident in the next scene when ice and fire meet. Missandei wears her three headed dragon pin on a leather strap across the right side of her shoulder, as well as a symmetrical coat with a cutout in the center that comes to jacket-length. Enter the throne room, and Dany is wearing an outfit that has all of these elements, but turned up to the next level.
This is arguably the most Targaeryen Daenerys has ever looked. The subtle reds at the extremities of the shoulder points and collar are more pronounced than ever, but Dany’s cape seals the deal. Not only is it a solid block of red, but it is treated to look like a big dragon skin slung over her shoulder. This is her version of the Stark look with their wolf pelt cloaks. She tops it all off with a cross-body chain, beginning at her dragon pin on her shoulder. This is Dany’s “ultimate Queen” look, and it is fitting both because this is the first time we see her sitting on a Westerosi throne, and because she expects it will help her seem like a true monarch to Jon. Michele Clapton noted that the chain is Dany’s answer to a crown. She feels that she cannot yet wear a crown until she’s won the Iron Throne so a giant chain is being used in the interim.
Once the formalities and introductions are through, and she has had a chance to meet with Tyrion in private, she drops the dramatics and wears a simpler black and silver brocade version of her now-signature look, but keeps her pin to remind Jon of her cause.
One striking thing about the meeting on the cliff between Jon and Tyrion was what they were wearing while speaking about their fathers. Tyrion thanks the gods that sons don’t always grow up to be their fathers, but there he is, standing in a leather vest with a Hand’s pin securely fastened, not unlike something that Tywin would have worn before his death. Jon is also a dead ringer for Ned as his cloak billows in the wind.
Varys has acquired a few new coats since landing at Dragonstone. Not surprisingly, he needed a bit more warmth since leaving the climates of the East, but it is interesting to note that his coats are no longer symmetrical like the robes he wore in King’s Landing. This may be him following suit, like all of Dany’s supporters, and mimicking the diagonal cross of her chain through the cross of his coat.
Over in King’s Landing, Euron is back to his leather star doublet but he’s left his Greyjoy cloak on to strike a more imposing figure as the new savior of the city. He presents Ellaria and Tyene to Cersei, who is wearing possibly her most formidable gown yet.
Cersei‘s spikes and sparkles are in full tilt, but it’s the way the embroidery and embellishments take shape that make it noteworthy. The obvious comparison to draw from it is the Iron Throne- the spikes are reminiscent of the swords and the cool silver is not unlike the melted steel. But what struck me, especially while she’s now in active revenge mode against the Sands, was how much it looks like a wildfire explosion, her ultimate act of payback. The organic flow beginning at the point at her chest, builds and bursts onto her shoulders like the Sept’s walls and roof. Cheekily, Cersei’s hip treatments are the exact same exaggerated hip treatments from Margaery’s Season 5 wedding dress when she married Tommen. This dress is a visual “fuck you” to all her enemies. She destroyed Margaery and all the rest with that wildfire and has manifested the story into a dress that she is wearing while she delivers more justice.
Up north, Sansa gets a new dress! But it’s exactly like the other one. However, there is an interesting new woven motif across her chest. This is her armor and protection while Jon is away and she is ruling, but it also recalls her caged-bird storyline from her time in King’s Landing.
A few stray thoughts
Those beautiful coats were the best thing to come out of the Dornish storyline.
Tycho’s pompous outfit puts anything that Mace Tyrell wore to shame. It would appear that the Iron Bank isn’t suffering the Crown’s debts too hard.
Cersei’s blue dressing gown calls back her Season 2 robes, and serves as a bit of humanization and juxtaposition from her court persona.
Cersei is ridding the capitol of all pretense of softness, so it is only natural that her handmaidens dress the part- shorn hair and high necks.
Not costume-related but I can’t not say it- the castle of Highgarden deserved better!!!