The Queen’s Justice, indeed. Episode 3 provides us with a few new costumes to assess, even if they are (predictably) a variation on a theme. Still, they are laden with symbolism and importance. Let’s jump right in.
Jon Snow arrives at Dragonstone wearing his usual armor. Tyrion greets him and Davos in his usual attire. Nothing seems to be of note, except upon re-watching, it seems that Missandei‘s armor and dress are even further echoing Daenerys, as will become evident in the next scene when ice and fire meet. Missandei wears her three headed dragon pin on a leather strap across the right side of her shoulder, as well as a symmetrical coat with a cutout in the center that comes to jacket-length. Enter the throne room, and Dany is wearing an outfit that has all of these elements, but turned up to the next level.
This is arguably the most Targaeryen Daenerys has ever looked. The subtle reds at the extremities of the shoulder points and collar are more pronounced than ever, but Dany’s cape seals the deal. Not only is it a solid block of red, but it is treated to look like a big dragon skin slung over her shoulder. This is her version of the Stark look with their wolf pelt cloaks. She tops it all off with a cross-body chain, beginning at her dragon pin on her shoulder. This is Dany’s “ultimate Queen” look, and it is fitting both because this is the first time we see her sitting on a Westerosi throne, and because she expects it will help her seem like a true monarch to Jon. Michele Clapton noted that the chain is Dany’s answer to a crown. She feels that she cannot yet wear a crown until she’s won the Iron Throne so a giant chain is being used in the interim.
Once the formalities and introductions are through, and she has had a chance to meet with Tyrion in private, she drops the dramatics and wears a simpler black and silver brocade version of her now-signature look, but keeps her pin to remind Jon of her cause.
One striking thing about the meeting on the cliff between Jon and Tyrion was what they were wearing while speaking about their fathers. Tyrion thanks the gods that sons don’t always grow up to be their fathers, but there he is, standing in a leather vest with a Hand’s pin securely fastened, not unlike something that Tywin would have worn before his death. Jon is also a dead ringer for Ned as his cloak billows in the wind.
Varys has acquired a few new coats since landing at Dragonstone. Not surprisingly, he needed a bit more warmth since leaving the climates of the East, but it is interesting to note that his coats are no longer symmetrical like the robes he wore in King’s Landing. This may be him following suit, like all of Dany’s supporters, and mimicking the diagonal cross of her chain through the cross of his coat.
Over in King’s Landing, Euron is back to his leather star doublet but he’s left his Greyjoy cloak on to strike a more imposing figure as the new savior of the city. He presents Ellaria and Tyene to Cersei, who is wearing possibly her most formidable gown yet.
Cersei‘s spikes and sparkles are in full tilt, but it’s the way the embroidery and embellishments take shape that make it noteworthy. The obvious comparison to draw from it is the Iron Throne- the spikes are reminiscent of the swords and the cool silver is not unlike the melted steel. But what struck me, especially while she’s now in active revenge mode against the Sands, was how much it looks like a wildfire explosion, her ultimate act of payback. The organic flow beginning at the point at her chest, builds and bursts onto her shoulders like the Sept’s walls and roof. Cheekily, Cersei’s hip treatments are the exact same exaggerated hip treatments from Margaery’s Season 5 wedding dress when she married Tommen. This dress is a visual “fuck you” to all her enemies. She destroyed Margaery and all the rest with that wildfire and has manifested the story into a dress that she is wearing while she delivers more justice.
Up north, Sansa gets a new dress! But it’s exactly like the other one. However, there is an interesting new woven motif across her chest. This is her armor and protection while Jon is away and she is ruling, but it also recalls her caged-bird storyline from her time in King’s Landing.
A few stray thoughts
Those beautiful coats were the best thing to come out of the Dornish storyline.
Tycho’s pompous outfit puts anything that Mace Tyrell wore to shame. It would appear that the Iron Bank isn’t suffering the Crown’s debts too hard.
Cersei’s blue dressing gown calls back her Season 2 robes, and serves as a bit of humanization and juxtaposition from her court persona.
Cersei is ridding the capitol of all pretense of softness, so it is only natural that her handmaidens dress the part- shorn hair and high necks.
Not costume-related but I can’t not say it- the castle of Highgarden deserved better!!!
Hodor!
I just don’t get one thing…Jon goes to the warmest place he’ve ever been and he still wears the same fur cloak that in Winterfell? That doesn’t make sense. But I still loved the episode 😉
That red cape was amazing! It seems the last couple of seasons Missandei’s look has also reflected Grey Worm. The trim on Varys’ new outfit shows a scale pattern, too. Team Dany! But he also has a fur trim….hmmmm….
Love your dive into the costuming! 🙂
Waiting on the Episode 5 title…..
Scandalous that there is nothing on Jorah eventually getting a new shirt…..
LOL!
I love the details on the sleeves on the second Dany look pictured. I really think HBO should team up with a clothing retailer to sell ready to wear knock offs of GoT costumes. Including the jewelry. It would sell so well.
Was it Oz’s recap that was pondering why Cersei’s hair is still so short? I think she’s keeping it short on purpose. She’s always resented being a woman and having female gender roles thrust on her. So she’s wearing less feminine clothes and keeping her hair short to appear more masculine and imposing. That’s my theory anyway!
When I saw Cersei’s spikey shoulder embellishments I thought “ohh I want to see what Hogan thinks of that!” Two meanings, very interesting and I can see what you are describing. It looked great. Dany’s red sash, I completely missed the scale pattern…and it is wonderful. The diagonal on Varys tunic is an good way to bring him into the same design fold of Dany’s crew just like Cersei’s handmaidens have their not so subtle short hair and black dresses. Shout-out for that bold nose-plate for Eruon’s horse! Enjoyed the post, looking forward to the next one.
jb,
I was thinking the same. He should have it very warm now since he’s used to much colder weather.
I believe Tyrion is playing the game. I think he gave the heads up about castille rock. He came up with the strategy and he told his brother and sister what to do. Ask yourself how do the Lanisters know where to be and what to do? Tyrion killed his father because he is old and dying anyway then he could gain the trust of Daenerys.
Joel,
But Cersei wants Tyrion dead more than anyone – her winning the war means his head on a spike.
I could see an argument for Tyrion playing his own game, or trying to keep Jaime alive – but not to advance Cersei’s cause…
the best thing about the Dorne story line was the beautiful costumes. Amazing embroidery!
I love that the costumes Daenerys has been wearing in S7 have elements of things she’s worn in the past. I only recently realized that her S7 dresses have a similar cut at the waist, with the pleats (she last wore something like that in S4, I think? White pleats with a blue dress). I especially like the shoulders of her S7 costumes, they remind me a lot of the Unsullied armor, which makes sense considering she’s their commander.
What I’m curious about is, in the preview for 704,
Could this be Michele Clapton’s way of giving us an insight into her mindset?
Hogan, loved the analysis of Cersei’s newest costume, especially the callback to Margaery’s gown.
I am starting a search for black/silver brocade now for my daughter’s next Daenerys cosplay!
I knew I had seen the hip detail before but couldn’t remember where, thanks for the answer and I don’t care what Jon wears as long as it includes fur😉 Thank you for your report Hogan very enjoyable.
So, how ’bout Sansa’s chain, eh? If Dany’s chain points to the coming crown, what does Sansa’s chain point to?
I am loving especially Dany’s three-headed dragon pin, and the reverberations of that pin in the identical Missandei and Grey Worm pins. With a total of three three-headed pins, does that mean we’ll get the three heads of the dragon this season?!!! Weren’t there multiple dragon mounts created by the graphics team, or am I recalling incorrectly?
Interesting analysis as usual.
I didn’t pick up the “wildfire” look for Cersei’s dress but you’re right indeed, it does look like a wildfire explosion.
Thank you !
onefromaway,
That’s called a chamfron. The detail of the kraken is terrific ! – although I did wonder that the Ironbound, being sailors, would have bothered much with royal horse furniture.